Taupenot-Merme, Chambolle-Musigny 2020

Taupenot did punchdowns during the cold soak, which lasted for seven to nine days at 8 degrees C., then once a day until the middle of the fermentation. He cut back on the number of pumpovers because the colour extraction was happening very easily. Taupenot always destems his fruit, noting that he “shares the philosophy of Henri Jayer on this subject.”

Incidentally, yields here for the premier crus were around 40 hectoliters per hectare, which Taupenot says may explain why he was able to harvest a bit later yet maintain fresh, high-pitched aromas. And with a lot of millerandange, he went on, the grapes released sugar and acidity at the end of the fermentations. “The pHs, now between 3.45 and 3.65 for the grand crus, are pretty typical for us.” The malolactic fermentations mostly finished last spring and the wines had been racked into tanks about five weeks before my December visit.

Run by seventh generation family member (Romain Taupenot), Taupenot-Merme is a historic Burgundy domain producing uncertified organic wines (since 2002) that show a true expression of terroir; elegance and vibrancy alongside richness and concentration. Made from two parcels of village Chambolle, both high up in the hills, the 2015 Chambolle-Musigny Taupenot-Merme.

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